J’avoue que si aujourd’hui, je suis encore très consommateur de film d’action, je ne parle évidemment pas de le dernière bouse de Bruce Willis mais bien de films de glisse, je suis de plus en plus « client » de documentaire du genre de celui-ci car j’ai toujours pensé et je pense plus que jamais que la grande force du surf, du windsurf, et de tous ces sports comparables, on pourrait citer le kite, le ski freeride, le skate, c’est cette dimension supplémentaire qu’ils offrent, cette épaisseur existentielle qu’on peut y trouver en les pratiquant. Ce qu’on peut appeler d’une façon très réductrice le lifestyle…

A Life Outside is a story of passion and obsession. It’s the story of the relationships of six New Jersey surfers: Greg Mesanko, Chris Mesanko, Kevin Casey, Jim Purpuri, Richard Luthringer, and Bucky Walters. Each one of them got on a surfboard for the first time about 50 years ago and haven’t stopped their pursuit of surf to this day. Pioneering surf at the famed Casino Pier in Seaside Heights NJ, in the 60’s, surfing freezing waters before wetsuits existed, when boards were long and heavy, skipping school when the swell was up, enduring criticism and low opinions by those who did not surf-these guys found themselves inside the grip of a passion, an obsession so deep, that only those who ride waves would understand. But surfing the Pier was a privilege earned, a territory fiercely protected. You didn’t just own a board and paddle out, you had to be invited and then prove quickly that you were good enough to be allowed in. So while surfing was a connection, friendships were complicated by the fierce competition in the water.

« I believe we are interconnected with everything, the earth,
the ocean, the water, the rock… »

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